In the Realm of Polar Bears and Ice: A Journey Around Spitsbergen

Exploring the Arctic is like stepping into another world. It’s a place where the vast, untouched wilderness holds mysteries that only a fortunate few ever witness. Join us as we recount our thrilling 10-day journey around Spitsbergen, the crown jewel of the Svalbard archipelago, where polar bears roam, glaciers glisten, and Arctic wildlife thrives.

Our adventure began in Longyearbyen, the northernmost town on Earth. As we boarded our vessel and settled into our cabins, excitement filled the air. The ship, sturdy and warm, would be our home as we navigated through some of the most extreme environments on the planet.

After an informative safety briefing and a delicious buffet dinner, we set sail from Longyearbyen, heading into the unknown. The daylight stretched endlessly, a reminder that we were now in the land of the midnight sun. Everyone was eager for the adventures ahead.

Waking up to the sight of towering glaciers in Kongsfjord was a breathtaking way to start the day. After breakfast, we boarded Zodiacs for a close-up view of the glacier fronts, marveling at the sheer size and beauty of these ice giants. Along the way, we spotted a relaxed bearded seal lounging on an ice floe, oblivious to our presence.

In the afternoon, we visited Ny-Ålesund, one of the northernmost settlements in the world. This historic Arctic research town was once the launching point for explorers like Roald Amundsen. Wandering through its streets felt like stepping back in time. We visited the famous Amundsen monument and the anchoring mast of the airships that once flew over the North Pole. As we explored, we kept an eye out for Arctic terns and snow buntings flying overhead.

The morning found us in Ayerfjorden, surrounded by towering cliffs and sprawling glaciers. We split into hiking groups to explore the tundra, each tailored to different fitness levels. Those who chose the longer hikes were rewarded with stunning panoramic views of the fjord system, while others opted for a more leisurely exploration of the landscape, spotting Svalbard reindeer along the way.

In the afternoon, we sailed to Hamiltonbukta, a serene bay that seemed untouched by time. Here, we witnessed thousands of seabirds nesting on steep cliffs, their calls filling the Arctic air. Among them were Brünnich’s guillemots and kittiwakes, busy with their breeding activities. The stillness of the bay, contrasted with the activity on the bird cliffs, made this one of the most peaceful and picturesque stops on our journey.

Today was all about the ice. As we ventured further north, we entered the realm of the polar bear. The ship navigated through the pack ice, a seemingly endless expanse of white that stretched to the horizon. It was an eerie and humbling experience, knowing that beneath this ice lay the heart of the Arctic.

With binoculars in hand, we scanned the ice for wildlife, hoping for a glimpse of the elusive polar bear. Our patience was rewarded when we spotted a polar bear in the distance, lazily lounging on an ice floe. This marked our first encounter with the “King of the Arctic,” a sight that left everyone in awe.

Claravågen greeted us with calm waters and striking landscapes. As we cruised through narrow inlets, we observed black guillemots, brent geese, and a nesting Arctic skua. However, it was the pristine Arctic scenery that truly stole the show. The reflective waters of the lagoons mirrored the sky, creating a perfect tableau of Arctic beauty.

In the afternoon, we landed at Eolusneset, a site steeped in history. Here, we encountered the graves of European whalers who once braved these waters in the 16th and 17th centuries. Our guides shared stories of the hardships these whalers faced, and we reflected on the harsh realities of life in the Arctic centuries ago. Nearby, we also spotted two walruses resting on the beach, offering a glimpse into the region’s diverse wildlife.

Alkefjellet, or “Auk Mountain,” is one of the Arctic’s most awe-inspiring bird cliffs, towering 100 meters above the water. As we cruised along its base in Zodiacs, we were surrounded by tens of thousands of Brünnich’s guillemots, their nests perched precariously on the narrow ledges of the cliff.

The activity was non-stop, with guillemots flying to and from their nests, while glaucous gulls patrolled the skies in search of easy prey. It was a bustling city of birds, and we were lucky to witness this thriving ecosystem in action.

Later, while cruising further into Hinlopen Strait, we were thrilled to spot another polar bear resting on a small rocky island. This sighting was followed by another bear shortly after, as we patiently watched from the ship’s deck, taking in the majestic sight of these apex predators in their natural habitat.

Sundneset, our first stop of the day, offered a glimpse into the life of Arctic trappers. We explored a well-preserved trapper’s hut and hiked through the surrounding tundra, keeping an eye out for Svalbard reindeer. These hardy animals thrive in the harsh Arctic environment, and we were fortunate to observe them grazing in the distance.

In the afternoon, we reached Kapp Lee, home to one of the largest walrus colonies in the region. As we quietly approached the beach, we spotted two polar bears in the distance, wandering along the tundra. It appeared that they were together for mating, offering an exciting and rare sight. The walruses, resting peacefully nearby, seemed oblivious to the activity, making for a perfect Arctic scene.

Hornsund is one of Spitsbergen’s most stunning fjords, with dramatic peaks and glaciers that plunge directly into the sea. We spent the morning hiking through Gåshamna, a historic site once used by whalers and Russian hunters. The remains of their settlements are still visible, offering a tangible connection to the past. As we hiked, we spotted humpback whales feeding in the fjord, their tails breaking the water’s surface in a graceful display.

For those brave enough, the day ended with a polar plunge! Several adventurers took the plunge into the icy waters, emerging with smiles and stories to tell.

Our final day of exploration took us to Bamsebu, a former beluga hunting station. As we walked among the scattered bones of beluga whales, we reflected on the history of Arctic whaling and how times have changed.

During lunch, another polar bear was spotted near the ship. We watched in awe as the bear roamed the island, picking at something before settling down to rest. It was the perfect farewell to the Arctic’s most iconic predator.

Our last landing was at Ingeborgfjellet, where we hiked to see the little auks nesting in the cliffs. These small birds, with their comical flight patterns, provided a delightful end to our journey. We also spotted a male reindeer and observed an Arctic fox making its way toward its den, a final reminder of the Arctic’s resilient wildlife.

Arctic Fox - Shot by Samanvitha Rao

All too soon, our Arctic adventure came to an end as we sailed back to Longyearbyen. We disembarked with heavy hearts but full of memories that would last a lifetime. The Arctic had shown us its wild beauty, and we left with a deep appreciation for this fragile and extraordinary environment.

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